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1.  Why would I need an amplifier for my LED Light strips?

For simple projects, odds are you don’t need an amplifier! Here’s the thing though about LED strip lights, running a lot of them together (regular or high density) can result in some dimming along the line. What the amplifiers do is ensure consistent color, clarity, and especially brightness for your installations! For regular density strips we recommend an amplifier after every two spools (or thirty-two feet, it’s the same, we swear) as the further your lights get from their power source the more likely they are to experience dimming. Now if you’re using high density strips, you’ll need to use amplifiers more frequently, twice as frequently to be exact. For every high density strip you use after the first one, you’ll need an amplifier. So your setup would be HD strip, amp, HD strip, amp, HD strip, etc. Think of it like a big LED sandwich.

2.  How do I set them up?

First things first, know that your amplifiers are going to be making three connections, you’ll definitely not be making four connections, or two connections unless you then proceed on to the third, five connections are right out. The first connection you make will be to an already perfectly bright and functioning LED strip. Your next connection will be made to the next LED strip light that you want to add to the chain. The final connection the amplifier will make is to a twelve volt DC power source. Check out our wiring diagram for more info on setting up amplifiers!

3.  How much power do I need for my amplifier?

It all depends on how many more strips you plan on attaching to your amazing chain of strip lights! What the amplifier is really doing is powering all the strips that follow it, so you need to make sure that the adapter you’re hooking the amplifier up to has the wattage needed to power up the remaining strips. Let’s say that you’ve got your amplifier all set up with one twenty-four watt spool hooked up to it, the amplifier will need to be hooked up to a power adapter that provides at least twenty-four watts of power!

4. What happens if I skip the amplifiers?

Hey if you want to skip amplifiers, go right ahead, there’s no law against it, the strips will still turn on, and your electric company will still provide you power, but your lights further down the line will be dimmer because of it. The only problem will be cosmetic, but seeing as that’s the primary purpose of these LEDs to most buyers, it’d be kind of shooting yourself in the foot not to use amplifiers. Some folks are okay with one big power source powering three or four strips with some dimming, but not everyone is cool with that. So the amplifier can be added to ensure that your project looks perfect and consistent from start to finish, from end to end, and all day long.

5.  What kinds of amplifiers do you offer?

We here at HitLights have two different amplifiers, single color and RGB. One works with color changing strips, the other…does not. It’s a tough riddle to figure out, but I know how smart you are, and I believe in your ability to figure out which is which!

Thanks for reading this installment of our troubleshooting series, we truly hope it has been helpful. Have a question we haven’t answered yet? contact us at cole@hitlights.com and we’ll do our best to answer it in the next installment. Please remember that our customer service staff (customerservice@hitlights.com) is happy to assist you with any and all of your concerns, questions, and suggestions. If you want to call and talk with us, well that’s just fine too – (225)-304-0408!

The Troubleshooting Series is published on Fridays, please have questions submitted by the Wednesday beforehand if you want it answered in the next installment.

Round 2! A counterpart to Last Week’s TSS

 

R108 Controller 1. How do I sync an R108 remote to an R108 receiver?

Kicking things off simple and standard, great opening question. First things first, you’ll want to unplug your R108 receiver. Trust me! I know that doesn’t make a whole lot of sense right now, but hang tough, it’ll all come together shortly. Next step, plug the receiver back in. Now quick! Within five seconds of plugging the receiver in, press and hold the “Speed+” and “Speed-” brightness buttons. See, I told you it would make sense if you gave it a chance! Last step, check and make sure your LEDs flash a few times to report a successful synchronization.

2. How many R108 receivers can I synchronize together?

We’ve run the tests, double checked the numbers, fired the first set of testers, promptly rehired them, tested again, and now we can answer you. At least ten receivers can be synchronized together. However, that isn’t to say that more receivers aren’t possible. As far as we know, you could sync all the receivers in existence together if you have the patience. Sadly, that’s not something we’ve done. What does that mean for you though? It means that all the receivers you do have synchronized together can be turned on or off and dimmed or brightened together!

3. Why when I hit the power button do some receivers turns on and others turns off?

Odds are, some lights were already turned on when the others got synchronized, it’s a common problem and happens a lot when people sync for the first time. To resolve the issue, press the power button some strips are turned on and the others are turned off. Then unplug the receivers that are turned off. Now press the power button again to turn them all off. With everything turned off, plug all the receivers back in. Finally, hit the power button and all your lights should come on together!

4. How far away can I be from my receivers?

A first down in football, sixty percent of the distance you should dig a latrine from your camp site, three stories, 4.235 Shaquille O’Neals laying end to end, what I’m trying to say here is thirty feet. Hopefully you learned at least one cool fact about thirty feet, I’m betting it was the latrine one, you could probably assume around four Shaqs would be thirty feet. Anyway, you can also use your remote through walls, as long as they aren’t made of metal, not even Shaq can work through walls, but your R108 can!

5. How many animations are on the R108?

The R108 has nearly twenty dynamic modes, nineteen to be exact! To top off all those dynamic modes (which is just technical slang for animations!) the R108 has actually twenty static colors, so there’s bound to be something in there that you like!

Thanks for reading this installment of our troubleshooting series, we truly hope it has been helpful. Have a question we haven’t answered yet? contact us at cole@hitlights.com and we’ll do our best to answer it in the next installment. Please remember that our customer service staff (customerservice@hitlights.com) is happy to assist you with any and all of your concerns, questions, and suggestions. If you want to call and talk with us, well that’s just fine too – (225)-304-0408!

The Troubleshooting Series is published on Fridays, please have questions submitted by the Wednesday beforehand if you want it answered in the next installment.

R106 Controller1. How do I sync an R106 remote to an R106 receiver?

Kicking things off simple and standard, great opening question. First things first, you’ll want to unplug your R106 receiver. Trust me! I know that doesn’t make a whole lot of sense right now, but hang tough, it’ll all come together shortly. Next step, plug the receiver back in. Now quick! Within five seconds of plugging the receiver in, press and hold the “25%” and “100%” brightness buttons. See, I told you it would make sense if you gave it a chance! Last step, check and make sure your LEDs flash a few times to report a successful synchronization.

2. How many R106 receivers can I synchronize together?

We’ve run the tests, double checked the numbers, fired the first set of testers, promptly rehired them, tested again, and now we can answer you. At least ten receivers can be synchronized together. However, that isn’t to say that more receivers aren’t possible. As far as we know, you could sync all the receivers in existence together if you have the patience. Sadly, that’s not something we’ve done. What does that mean for you though? It means that all the receivers you do have synchronized together can be turned on or off and dimmed or brightened together!

3. Why when I hit the power button do some receivers turns on and others turns off?

Odds are, some lights were already turned on when the others got synchronized, it’s a common problem and happens a lot when people sync for the first time. To resolve the issue, press the power button some strips are turned on and the others are turned off. Then unplug the receivers that are turned off. Now press the power button again to turn them all off. With everything turned off, plug all the receivers back in. Finally, hit the power button and all your lights should come on together!

4. How far away can I be from my receivers?

A first down in football, sixty percent of the distance you should dig a latrine from your camp site, three stories, 4.235 Shaquille O’Neals laying end to end, what I’m trying to say here is thirty feet. Hopefully you learned at least one cool fact about thirty feet, I’m betting it was the latrine one, you could probably assume around four Shaqs would be thirty feet. Anyway, you can also use your remote through walls, as long as they aren’t made of metal, not even Shaq can work through walls, but your R106 can!

Thanks for reading this installment of our troubleshooting series, we truly hope it has been helpful. Have a question we haven’t answered yet? contact us at cole@hitlights.com and we’ll do our best to answer it in the next installment. Please remember that our customer service staff (customerservice@hitlights.com) is happy to assist you with any and all of your concerns, questions, and suggestions. If you want to call and talk with us, well that’s just fine too – (225)-304-0408!

The Troubleshooting Series is published on Fridays, please have questions submitted by the Wednesday beforehand if you want it answered in the next installment.

1. Are all of your light bulbs dimmable?

I can’t say they all are because that would be a lie, and I’m sure you’d rather hear the truth. However, most of our bulbs are dimmable, so rejoice! I could break down the list of dimmable vs. non dimmable here, but every bulb listed on our website will point out whether that bulb is or is not dimmable. So if there’s a bulb you like, give its page a check, odds are it’ll be dimmable! I wish all of our bulbs were dimmable, but making LEDs compatible with AC dimmers is a difficult, and expensive, endeavor. This is because LEDs require special components to dim their light evenly when hooked up to AC dimmers. Now while most of our bulbs are dimmable they may not work with all dimmers and fixtures. If you find that to be the case after receiving your order, contact us! We’ll be happy to work things out with you!

Leviton's website has a page just for LED-compatible dimmers!

Leviton’s website has a page just for LED-compatible dimmers!

2. What kind of dimmers are best to use with dimmable bulbs?

Best is always going to vary from project to project, but two popular dimmer brands are Lutron and Leviton. These brands are compatible with most, but not all, dimmable LED bulbs so picking one of them should work for you! As for dimmers in general though, LED bulbs tend to have a few issues with digital dimmers and some early model incandescent dimmers, so if possible try and avoid them. The good news is that most LED bulbs will work with the popular dimmers that are being sold right now. Like I mention above though, if your HitLights bulbs don’t work with your dimmers, send them back in seven days for a full refund and we’ll work out the problem together!

The remote control for color-changing LED light bulbs can control the brightness!

The remote control for color-changing LED light bulbs can control the brightness!

3. Can I dim bulbs with a remote? or an App?

Yes! Kind of! While our LED bulbs don’t off super sci-fi space tech integration with smart phone/tablet apps yet, we’re pretty sure that not too far down the road that’ll be a pretty standard feature. However, all of our color changing LED bulbs do use a remote control for dimming! So there’s that kind of I mentioned a couple sentences back. For now, instances of wireless dimming are few and sort of far between, but science is on it, and science won’t let you down.

4. Do dimmable bulbs last longer?

Dimmable bulbs in general don’t tend last too much longer than their non-dimming counterparts. While it is true that the dimmable bulbs are built with more expensive components, they have the same ball park lifespan as our regular bulbs, around fifty thousand hours. So while the dimmable bulbs last about as long as non-dimmable bulbs, they still last an incredibly long time.

5. How dim can a dimmable LED bulb get?

Led Bulbs can get so dim…wait, I don’t think that’s a reference anyone will get anymore. Anyway, Dimmable LED bulbs don’t exactly slide comfortably up and down the zero to one hundred percent scale. Dimmable LED bulbs can only dim down to around twenty-five or thirty percent brightness, any lower and most simply shut off. So unfortunately  your LEDs won’t dim down to just a glowing ember, but twenty-five percent is still pretty darn dim if I do say so myself.

Thanks for reading this installment of our troubleshooting series, we truly hope it has been helpful. Have a question we haven’t answered yet? contact us at cole@hitlights.com and we’ll do our best to answer it in the next installment. Please remember that our customer service staff (customerservice@hitlights.com) is happy to assist you with any and all of your concerns, questions, and suggestions. If you want to call and talk with us, well that’s just fine too – (225)-304-0408!

The Troubleshooting Series is published on Fridays, please have questions submitted by the Wednesday beforehand if you want it answered in the next installment.

http://gfycat.com/ConcreteEvenCirriped

1. What do I need to set up a hard wire adapter?

Before you even get the necessary supplies together we need to cover safety. I know, I know, you’ve heard this all before. That’s great that you know how to be safe, but like the adage goes, better safe than sorry. Whenever you’re working with wires always make sure that no power is flowing through them. While yes, DC power is much safe and can be carefully handled, it never hurts to be extra cautious. Now that we’ve gone over safety yet again, let’s talk about what you’ll need to hard wire a power adapter. The list is pretty short actually, so no need to fret! You’ll need an adapter (obviously!) of any size (sixty watts, one hundred and fifty watts, three hundred and fifty watts, all fine!) In addition to your adapter get yourself an AC cable, two or three pronged will do (I suggest three, as they are safer.) A pack of male DC plugs (strip to male plug adapters) will round out the list.

2. How do I hook up my AC power on my adapter? ground

First thing’s first, get the brown wire on your AC cable. You’re gonna want to connect this to the L (live) port on your adapter. The next step is very similar, almost the same honestly. Take the blue wire on your AC cable and connect it to the N (neutral) port of your adapter. Now if you’re using the three pronged cable like I suggested, there’s one more wire you need to deal with, the striped wire. Hook this last wire up to the ground port, easily identified by the grounding symbol seen to the left. If you happen to be hard wiring a weatherproof adapter, then this whole step is as easy as matching the wire colors up!

3. How do I hook up my DC power on my adapter?

These steps are very simple, practically the same as hooking up the AC power to your adapter. Take the red wire from your DC plug (a strip to male plug adapter) and connect it to one of the V+ ports on your adapter. Then connect the black wire on your DC plug to a V- port on your adapter. Super easy, and if you’re using a weatherproof adapter it’s once again even easier. Just like with hooking up AC power, just match the colors for a weatherproof adapter!

4. My adapter is setup correctly, but my lights won’t come on. What’s happening?  Meanwell 350W Adapter Front

I’m sorry to hear that, have you tried politely asking it to work? If that doesn’t work we can try to actually trouble shoot your issue. If you’re using one of our one hundred and fifty or three hundred and fifty watt adapters then the solution could be pretty simple. These adapters come with a switch that toggles the power between two hundred and thirty or one hundred and fifteen volts. The former option is not at all common in the US and probably won’t provide you any power, so just flip that switch over to one fifteen and the green light that indicates power flow should come on! If that doesn’t work, contact our customer support at customerservice@hitlights.com or (225)-304-0408 and we’ll be happy to help you!

5. I want to use a hard wire adapter outdoors, what are my options?

Weatherproof and waterproof adapters are always options to consider. Our sixty and one ninety-two watt adapter models are also fine for outdoor use as well, though you’ll want to heat shrink the AC and DC plug connections beforehand.MEANWELL Waterproof Power Transformer Adapter (Bare Wire) Our one fifty and three fifty models aren’t designed with the great outdoors in mind, but that doesn’t mean you can’t use them! If you keep them in covered areas or other protected spaces you can be okay. There’s also weatherproof wiring boxes on the market that could help you out. Just make sure whatever these adapters are powering is also designed to operated outdoors too!

Thanks for reading this installment of our troubleshooting series, we truly hope it has been helpful. Have a question we haven’t answered yet? contact us at cole@hitlights.com and we’ll do our best to answer it in the next installment. Please remember that our customer service staff (customerservice@hitlights.com) is happy to assist you with any and all of your concerns, questions, and suggestions. If you want to call and talk with us, well that’s just fine too – (225)-304-0408!

The Troubleshooting Series is published on Fridays, please have questions submitted by the Wednesday beforehand if you want it answered in the next installment.

Dreaming LED Light Strip1. What the heck is a Dreaming Strip?

You know our color changing strips? Those are pretty neat, aren’t they? They sure are, they sure are, but what if they were better? I know what you’re thinking, “That’s impossible, my color changing LEDs are the Bee’s Knees! All the fellas at the soda fountain said they were far out!” Cool it daddy o, all that’s still true, but these Dreaming strips are still much, much cooler. For starters, check out this video then tell me they aren’t top notch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ST3I9SdjHww What did I tell you huh, they’re about as cool as they come. Let’s review how these strips compare to regular color changing strips in hardware, shall we? The Dreaming Strip comes in the standard 16.4 foot long spool as our other strips. Here’s where they get fancy though, with the Dreaming strips waterproof comes standard. That’s right, these strips are IP67 by default, meaning there’s no project these strips aren’t right for! In addition to the static color’s that any color changing strip has, these strips have ninety nine, that’s one less than a hundred, different animations.

2. How many can I string together?

Oh did you think I was done listing all the awesome features of the Dreaming Strip? Because I’m not. Dreaming strips have amplifiers built in, so no more worrying about how many amplifiers you need, because the answer is zero. What that means is that as long as you have sixty watts of power for each spool, you can string these bad boys together INDEFINITELY. Now that gives you a few options for power adapters, you can either plug in a sixty watt power source after every strip, which is fine for smaller projects or when you’ve got ready access to outlets. Another option is to go big and use a three hundred and fifty watt adapter for every six strips, which is great for large installations or if you’re planning to expand the project later. However, it’s serious overkill if you’re only using a couple strips, which you’re still totally free to do.

3. Can I cut these together and reconnect them?

Can you cut and reconnect the strips? Yes, technically it is totally possible to do. Should you? We here at Hitlights don’t recommend it. If you’re an electrician or electrical engineer or other professional then if you proceed with the utmost caution then you should be alright. Just always remember that we always suggest to think of safety first when working with wiring and other electrical components. Our dreaming strips are more sensitive than the other strips we offer, which is the reason why we protect them with the waterproof silicon sleeve in the first place. So please remember to treat your dreaming strips with care and caution, as while they have a lot of protection, it’s because they need it.

4. How should I mount a dreaming strip?

While mounting suggestions can change based on the specificity of different projects, we can offer a few suggestions that you are more than welcome to heed or ignore. Simple solutions that work for the majority of projects will always be Hitlights Mounting Clips or zip-ties. If you forgot about mounting when you ordered your dreaming strip, zip-ties are life saver, simple to use and the hold they offer is rock solid. If you dont have an area you can screw into for the mounting clips, or no where to wrap a zip-tie around, silicon adhesive is gonna be your next go to. Another great use of the silicon adhesive is seamless installs. That way when you’re showing off your finished project, all your LED admirers will see is the light.

5. Can I customize the animations?

What? you’ve got ninety-nine problems and they’re all of our animations? Being serious, unfortunately you can’t customize them, the animations are what they are. Really though, there are ninety-nine different animations, surely you like at the bare minimum at least eighty or ninety of the animations.

Thanks for reading this installment of our troubleshooting series, we truly hope it has been helpful. Have a question we haven’t answered yet? contact us at cole@hitlights.com and we’ll do our best to answer it in the next installment. Please remember that our customer service staff (customerservice@hitlights.com) is happy to assist you with any and all of your concerns, questions, and suggestions. If you want to call and talk with us, well that’s just fine too – (225)-304-0408!

The Troubleshooting Series is published on Fridays, please have questions submitted by the Wednesday beforehand if you want it answered in the next installment.

NBIA & LBTC

Last week, Hitlights and the other incubator companies of the Louisiana Business and Technology Center hosted a facility tour for the NBIA’s 28th International Conference on Business Incubation. But wait, what’s…

The NBIA?

The National Business Incubator Association is an international organization that help companies in the early stages of development get on their feet through educational and networking assistance. With nearly a third of the countries in the world represented in the NBIA, they describe themselves as, “the world’s leading organization advancing business incubation and entrepreneurship.”

Why Hitlights?

NBIA5839“Wait, wait, wait, why was Hitlights involved with this incubator tour? I thought you were already an established LED lighting business?” While we are a leading LED lighting supplier, Hitlights got it’s start as one of LSU’s first student incubator businesses. After completing the program, we decided to stick close to home and set up shop in the Louisiana Business and Technology Center in LSU’s Innovation Park. So far, we’ve done pretty well for ourselves in the LBTC. Upon learning that the LBTC would be hosting some of the NBIA’s International Conference, we jumped at the opportunity to take part!

The Tour

NBIA5854While the NBIA’s 28th annual conference ended on Wednesday, May 21, Hitlights and the other incubator companies in the LBTC weren’t done just yet. On Thursday, May 22, many of the conference’s attendees returned to the LBTC for a tour of the offices to further network with the successful businesses. Like a big professional open house, the LBTC businesses threw open their doors to receive the conference attendees and talk with them about the work they do. Hitlights’ Business Development Manager, Casey Self, was our liaison to the attendees and gave them an overview of how things work and how HitLights brings LED lighting solutions to everyone.

HitLights is a leading U.S. LED lighting manufacturer and distributor. Hitlights has recently gained tremendous popularity due to our products’ low energy-consumption, long lifespans and quality materials. Not only do we offer a wide variety of LED bulbs, light strips and accessories, we also offer fast and friendly customer service. Check out our LED lighting solutions at: www.hitlights.com.

LED Light Strip Kits1.  Can I extend my LED light kit without extra parts?

Many customers ask about adding on lights to their projects after they used a kit.  Odds are that yes, you will be able to use LED light strips that you already have! If you want to make sure though, you can always email us, or give us a call, or send us a telegram, or even come by our office! Just tell us the details of your project and we’ll let you know whether or not you’ll need extra parts for your ideal installation to be realized. The most common thing that would necessitate additional parts is the power adapter. If the one packaged in the kit is too small you’d need to upgrade it to make your project work. Also, if you’re planning on adding more than one spool of LEDs to your kit, you might need an amplifier to make sure that your lights will be operating at peak performance.

Properly Aligned 4-Pin PlugBattery Divider Tab2. My lights won’t come on after I plug them in.  What gives?

What gives? I thought we were better friends than that. If you’re having an issue with your strips though, I can definitely help you with that. First thing’s first, check that the 4-pin plug for your IR control receiver is plugged into the positive (+) side of your strip. This is a very common issue that is easy to run into, especially on a first installation. If you’ve made sure that the receiver is plugged into the correct end of your strips then check your remote to make sure your removed the plastic divider to turn the remote on. The divider is easy to overlook and perhaps the easiest fix of any issue you could have! Once the strips are aligned right and the divider has been removed, your lights and controller should be fully functional!  If not, give us an email or a call and we’ll be happy to help out.

3. Why don’t you sell X kit?

Because X is an overrated letter. How many words start with X that aren’t Xerox and Xylophone? None. In all seriousness though, We really try and make kits for the most common applications and projects, like under-cabinet/counter lighting. So while we’d love to have a kit for every application under the sun, that’s just not realistic for us at this point in time. If your project is on the more unique side, for instance a hot air balloon kit, you might need to go at it without a pre-made kit. Don’t let this get you down though! Our customer service team is more than happy to help you with your project and can help you find the right components for you. Just look at it like you’re making a custom kit!

RGB LED Light Kit4. I can create a custom kit?

You better believe it! Seriously, you better because it’s a fact, like 2+2=4. The kits we sell are just grouped together products that are used in common applications, like strip lights, adapters and controllers. So if you need a specific assortment of products for you kit, that’s great! You can assemble a kit based on what you know you need all by yourself, or you can contact us and we’ll help steer you towards the right products for your project. Either way, we’ve got everything you need to get your project going, and a kit, pre-made or custom, is the first step you need to take!

Thanks for reading this installment of our troubleshooting series, we truly hope it has been helpful. Have a question we haven’t answered yet? contact us at cole@hitlights.com and we’ll do our best to answer it in the next installment. Please remember that our customer service staff (customerservice@hitlights.com) is happy to assist you with any and all of your concerns, questions, and suggestions. If you want to call and talk with us, well that’s just fine too – (225)-304-0408!

The Troubleshooting Series is published on Fridays, please have questions submitted by the Wednesday beforehand if you want it answered in the next installment.

Photo from wambs8 on iboat.com!

1. What is the best way to power my LED Lights on my boat?

Best way? Wire your lights directly into your boat’s 12V battery and enjoy! With most boats this task is as simple as finding the boat’s fuse box or breaker panel. Listen though, a word of caution, you have to, absolutely have to, make sure that the power source is 12V. A fair many boats have regulators built in that will prevent the power from spiking up to 13 or 14 volts, but if your boat doesn’t have this safety feature, don’t worry, you can protect your LEDs with a DC voltage regulator.

A typical DC voltage regulator2.  What is a DC voltage regulator?

Simply put, a DC voltage regulator makes sure DC power doesn’t exceed 12V, I could bore you with the science, but neither of us are here for that. In some large vehicles, boats included, there’s a chance that the 12V battery can output more than those 12V, sometimes up to 13, or even 14 volts depending on how charged the battery is or if it’s under a lot of strain. So if there’s no regulator on your boat, the following effects may become present in your LED lights: Dimming, loss of hearing, fading, light pattern baldness, and even burn outs. If your lights or lights you know have experienced any of these effects, you should have bought a DC voltage regulator.

3.  What kind of weather/water proofing level should I choose for my boat LED’s?

Depending on where the lights are located on your boat, this answer could change, but at the very least we suggest weatherproof lights, which are graded IP65. Now you could also want full on water proof lights (IP67) if your lights are anywhere near your boats outer edge, or even on the hull itself. If you want to be safe, IP67′s all the way can’t hurt as boats are quite commonly associated with and surrounded by water. Let’s say you’re only looking for cabin lighting though, in that case IP65′s will work fine.

Loctite is a commonly used silicon sealant4.  If I cut and reconnect my strip, how can I keep it weather/water resistant?

Once you’ve cut and/or reconnected your strips, you can cover any open components with some high-grade silicon sealant. We use the same type of silicon gel to coat our IP65 strips, so you know it’s good! The seal will be strong and water tight if used properly, and if you’re using connectors, feel free to coat the connector in the silicon as well (though this seals it tight, it can make the connector tougher to get to if there are any issues. 

5.  What are the best ways to mount LED’s on my boat?

If you’re mounting LED light strips in the cabin or away from watery areas on your boat, then the adhesive that comes standard on the strips will work fine as long as you make sure you’re mounting on a smooth, dry, and clean surface. Looking for something tougher? We offer a super strong foam mounting tape on our website. It’s the same tape used on our IP65′s! Now for the fully waterproof IP67′s, there’s no included adhesive as the strip is contained in a waterproof silicon sleeve. Don’t worry though! These lights ship with mounting clips that can be screwed in anywhere you need them. Now we don’t want you drilling holes in the side of your beautiful boat, so you can actually use the silicon sealant I mentioned earlier as a mounting option for these strips! And as always, zip-ties are tough to beat if they can be made to work!

LED Boat Lighting

Thanks for reading this installment of our troubleshooting series, we truly hope it has been helpful. Have a question we haven’t answered yet? contact us at cole@hitlights.com and we’ll do our best to answer it in the next installment. Please remember that our customer service staff (customerservice@hitlights.com) is happy to assist you with any and all of your concerns, questions, and suggestions. If you want to call and talk with us, well that’s just fine too – (225)-304-0408!

The Troubleshooting Series is published on Fridays, please have questions submitted by the Wednesday beforehand if you want it answered in the next installment.

A little different this week…

Don’t worry, we’re still doing the Trouble Shooting Series, but this week there aren’t any questions being answered per se, but rather we’ll be doing some close troubleshooting on RGB strip to strip connectors.

STEP ONE

 

First things first, we need to make sure your strips are plugged in the right way. While it is possible for the strips to be plugged in backwards, that will cause issues, so don’t do that! Our RGB strip lights have a “+12V” symbol near most of the cut lines, this is there to tell you which side of the strip is the positive side! Now that you’ve figured out which end of the strip is positive, line it up with the “+” end of the connector, which is indicated on the white connector box. If you’ve got the polarity right for both strips, then let’s move onto step two.

STEP TWO

With the polarities right, we can turn the lights on, isn’t that exciting? Yes! the answer is yes! To make the rest of these steps as easy as possible, set your strips to white once you’ve turned them on. If your first strip lights up white, but your second strip doesn’t light up at all, or displays a color other than white, then we’ve got a bit of an issue and we’ll need to look a little closer at these connections, which can be finicky to work with sometimes, but I know we can fix this. Together.

STEP THREE

If the strips aren’t both coming up white when you set them to white, then pop open the connector boxes to see the LED strip’s connections. There’s no need to worry about adjusting these lights bare handed, because our LEDs run on 12V DC power, and there no shock danger there! With the connector box open, we need to check and make sure that LED strip’s copper ports are properly lined up with the connector’s silver pins. If you can see that they aren’t aligned right, gently move the strip back and forth until the strips light up properly, this usually fixes connection issues!

STEP FOUR

While you’re attempting to realign the strips, watch your second strip (the one that wasn’t lighting up right) and wait for it to start behaving properly. Once the strips are working as intended, snap the connector shut and marvel at how great a job you did and how awesome you lights look (marveling takes a minimum of twenty to forty minutes and is a completely necessary step for the connection to remain solid.(I’m serious.))  However, if a new issues arises while attempting to get the strips to light up properly, go back to step one and try again. If the issue doesn’t go away, please contact us, we are ready and willing to help you with all your LED questions and concerns! HitLights customer service can be reached via email or phone (225-304-0408) get in touch with us so that we can help get your lights up and running!

 

Thanks for reading this installment of our troubleshooting series, we truly hope it has been helpful. Have a question we haven’t answered yet? contact us at cole@hitlights.com and we’ll do our best to answer it in the next installment. Please remember that our customer service staff (customerservice@hitlights.com) is happy to assist you with any and all of your concerns, questions, and suggestions. If you want to call and talk with us, well that’s just fine too – (225)-304-0408!

The Troubleshooting Series is published on Fridays, please have questions submitted by the Wednesday beforehand if you want it answered in the next installment.

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